el.is.in.wonderland

I haven’t posted about a specific restaurant before (or so I thought…), but this one absolutely deserves a dedicated write-up. Trust me, it’s worth it—bear with me!

On November 13–14, 2024, I had the chance to visit Western Thrace. We drove from Athens to Kavala, Xanthi, and Komotini—a journey filled with scenic roads and historic charm. For clarity, Greeks often refer to this region simply as Thrace, as there’s no other Thrace within Greece. Eastern Thrace, however, lies across the border in Turkey. While the trip itself was work-related, not leisure, the beauty of these cities quickly landed them on my bucket list for future getaways.

Both Xanthi and Komotini are home to vibrant Muslim/Turkish communities. Xanthi, in particular, is an old town filled with narrow cobblestone streets and charming historic buildings. And nestled in a small village called Pilima, Xanthi, lies the star of this story—a quaint little tavern that stole my heart.

Located on an unnamed road, this tavern serves Turkish-influenced cuisine, a thoughtful gesture from our hosts who knew we eat halal food. Getting there is an experience in itself, with scenic routes that pass through old bridges, nature, and picturesque villages.

Literally written: unnamed road…

Among all the dishes served during our visit, one stole the show for me: this.

I can’t remember the exact name, but it’s essentially rice lightly fried and served with something magical called Kavurma. For those unfamiliar, Kavurma is a type of sautéed or fried meat dish from Turkish cuisine. It can also refer to the preserved version, prepared by dry-frying meat to render the fat, which extends its shelf life.

The Kavurma used in this dish was the preserved kind, sourced from a well-known meat brand in the region called Bandak. Let me tell you—Bandak’s meat products are phenomenal. Their Kavurma, in particular, is rich, flavorful, and melts in your mouth. It reminded me of the corned beef I grew up eating as a child back in Indonesia—a nostalgic burst of flavor that warmed both my heart and my taste buds.

Fun fact: Bandak products are so iconic that even the airport scanners in the area recognize them. If a box full of meat products comes through, chances are it’s from Bandak. That’s how much of a local treasure it is!

And as if the Kavurma wasn’t enough to leave me swooning, the meal introduced me to a tea like no other. We ordered tea expecting a simple hot drink with a teabag, but what arrived was bottled mountain tea—a specialty of the area. In Indonesia, bottled teas are often sweet, so I didn’t expect much. But boy oh boy, this tea blew me away! It was mildly sweet with a perfectly balanced flavor, unlike anything I’ve had before. Unfortunately, it’s exclusive to this region, so finding it in Athens is next to impossible.

This little tavern in Xanthi wasn’t just a meal—it was an experience filled with flavors that sparked joy and nostalgia. If you ever find yourself in Xanthi or Komotini, make it a priority to visit this hidden gem and, of course, pick up some Bandak products to bring home. Trust me, your taste buds will thank you!

What’s your most unforgettable food experience? Let me know in the comments!